Tuesday 19 February 2013

(xvi) chasing the dragon

Semporna. A city whose sole purpose is access to world class dive sites. But really, it could make some effort. Dirty streets, market stalls and shops stack every inch of the harbour. There is no beach, no seafront nor destination to speak of. Finally though, a traveller vibe, and divers flush with natural wonder.

*****
Peanut allergy strikes. The 'restaurant' has no toilet. I withdraw to pungent back alley to revisit my dinner in peace. Mid-chunder an alley-cat approaches. He eats my puke as I continue to offer seconds and thirds. Nature's feeding cycle at work.

*****
I secure my golden ticket. A pass to dive Sipadan. Only a few granted daily to preserve reef integrity. A system I agree with in entirety. My six day dive itinerary is now complete.

*****
Diving Sibuan
Underwater beauty. Frog fish, peacock mantis shrimp, giant barracuda, nudibranch, eagle ray, juvenile sweetlips. Turtles. Always turtles.

The most shocking aspect of diving Borneo are the explosions. Violent, sudden, unexpected. I initially thought two tanks had clashed during scuba-acrobatics. I was wrong. Metres from divers exploring protected coral, local fishermen use dynamite filled glass bottles to 'fish'. The explosions are heartbreaking, the damaged coral irreparable. The fish, dead.

Malay fishermen blame Phillipinos, ditto the reverse. I blame the local authorities. A daily reef protection charge is levied on all divers, yet the jetty is decrepit and dynamite fishing abundant with no apparent deterrent.

The explosions are frequent. In future years the diving may not be.

*****
Diving Mabul.
I think each turtle ate an elephant for breakfast, or a rhino. With a great grizzly for desert. They are the largest I have seen. The shells could house a small family. One turtle sits astride a wrecked diveboat. It is clear he is the Boss. The biggest, coolest ninja I have seen. And then his big brother arrived. Donatello released his post to Leonardo. A small cleaner fish nestled into Leo's neck to embrace.

*****
Stories from a diving instructor...

The Shrimp and the Gobi

The shrimp and the gobi live in perfect romantic harmony in sand pockets on the ocean floor. The shrimp is blind and hugs tight to her gobi friend for protection. The gobi bobs in and out of their home, checking for predators and seeking food. The shrimp earns her keep cleaning sand from the hole, sweeping, sweeping, sweeping. Gobi spots something and they both dive for safety. Perfect harmony

*****

Nemo fish live in pairs of alternate sex. When they have children, they chase away or eat all but 2 for fear of being ousted. Every so often, the Queen destroys the King, then changes sex to assume the mantle. The next biggest fish becomes Queen, usually a child of the previous royal regime.

Nowt stranger than fish.

*****

Chasing the Dragon.
The hunt for the Lembeh Sea Dragon began;

'She is the size and shape of hair, but with a small head and eyes. She lives on a reef that also looks like hair.'
'Do we know where she is?'

Instructor points to the ocean. 'She lives in paradise'.
It was the name of the dive site.
Appropriate.

'Oh; if you have never seen one, they are hard to spot.'
'Have you seen one?'
'No, they're reeeaaallyy rare, so I am super excited to find one.'

The giddy anticipation was hugely endearing. I love a mission, it keeps things fresh.
From what I could understand, we were looking for a hair with a nit attached...

...In the Ocean.

Oh, and the nithair was ever so slightly self important.
Sea Dragon? Really?

Disappointingly, we drew a blank. My instructor showed me the tiniest nudi branches and taught me the sex life of Nemo. She ensured every dive had a mission, a purpose, an intention. I would have loved her to find her Sea Dragon. Mind you, if you find everything you desire in paradise, what dreams do you hold for tomorrow?

The chase for the Dragon goes on.

*****

*dive photography credits go to Joachim Ardelt.
































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