(xi) mineral baths & canopy tour

For me, planning and holiday making don't often combine. This time, I'm glad they did. Aching from Mountain descent I grab fresh footwear and reclaim baggage. I pass the bandits stalking soft tourist fodder for the trip to sulphuric hot springs. Natural remedy for aching limbs.

I flag a local people carrier and barter a fare. Squeezed into backseat centre, cuddled up to baggage, I make the springs in half the time and a fraction of the price. Locals benefitting rather than national business.

Planning extended to booking lodgings outside the hot spring national park. It comprises a room in the rear of a Chinese Wash house. How convenient; 'Mountain-fresh' aroma is not all it's cracked up to be.

I walk over river misted with mineral content. Beauty in prime condition. I find a ceramic complex of baths, pools and foot troughs. I expect many a wearied tourist, seeped in sweat and stories from SE Asia's highest peak. Yet what I find is altogether nicer. Local Chinese population meeting for chat and soak after daily grind. A walk in the park and rest in the pools. Social meeting place. Like the Romans. Like Victoria Baths.

Victoria Baths is my Dad's pet restoration project. Swimming pool, wash-house and meeting place rooted firmly in his childhood. Tiled building of beauty. His favoured story is the water cycle through the three pools.

First class male...
Second class male...
Female.

Here there are 8 pools. Red hot jacuzzi. Icy rock pool. Six deep oblong holes between; each a progression from hot to cold. I study the groups. Teenaged boys sharing rugby-esque ritual. Families, groups of girls covered in full Islamic dress. I'm not sure there's class progression in force, nor where I might fit within. I alternate hot Jacuzzi with cool rock pool and cover both ends of the spectrum.

*****

Sulphur induced sleep captures me from early evening until the morning after. I wake refreshed, and check my emails for news from home. Grandad still in hospital, more tests on back and shoulder pain. An email about diving - Sipadan may be fully booked. An email from home - the Westerly wind blowing through my life again. Imminent change. Welcome change.

National Park Canopy Tour. 150 metres long walkways through Menggaris trees; perfect accompaniment to elevated mindset. Planning, preparing, readying myself for fresh challenges. I've missed the excitement. I've missed the responsibility. Oh, the trees were quite pretty too.

Another dip in sulphuric pools, easing mountain-tired muscles, loosening the brain. Perhaps I need a hot-tub back home...