(xvii) My ocean valentine

My Valentine is late, but I forgive. I fear she sought love much longer than just one day.

Her beauty calls out; poised vulnerable and innocent on the bed before me. I draw close, tracing her body, echoing her gentle curves. Abandoned, forlorn; savaged by recent tides and reckless lovers.

I learn her name; Sipadan Mermaid. Tattooed to her side like a branding, an ownership. She rests helpless, unable to raise herself and seek pastures new. Nestled amongst creatures she once viewed from above, becoming one with her sea bed.

She takes my breath. Marked by time and wrecked of former elegance, the ravaging scars are beauty marks of a lifetime.

It is only ever sweet dalliance, a holiday romance. She drifts away through the waters like a whispered memory. The Bornean Aphrodite. My ocean valentine.

I shall write my Mermaid, always I shall write.




*****

The Sipadan Mermaid began life as a Norwegian fishing boat, but was later used for diving and transport between islands in Malaysian Borneo. She was sunk on 19th May 2006 and has become an artificial reef with one particular claim to fame. Positioned close to Palau Mataking, the Mermaid boasts Borneo's only underwater post box. Divers can post letters and cards which are later collected stamped with the island's post mark and delivered worldwide.

(xvi) chasing the dragon

Semporna. A city whose sole purpose is access to world class dive sites. But really, it could make some effort. Dirty streets, market stalls and shops stack every inch of the harbour. There is no beach, no seafront nor destination to speak of. Finally though, a traveller vibe, and divers flush with natural wonder.

*****
Peanut allergy strikes. The 'restaurant' has no toilet. I withdraw to pungent back alley to revisit my dinner in peace. Mid-chunder an alley-cat approaches. He eats my puke as I continue to offer seconds and thirds. Nature's feeding cycle at work.

*****
I secure my golden ticket. A pass to dive Sipadan. Only a few granted daily to preserve reef integrity. A system I agree with in entirety. My six day dive itinerary is now complete.

*****
Diving Sibuan
Underwater beauty. Frog fish, peacock mantis shrimp, giant barracuda, nudibranch, eagle ray, juvenile sweetlips. Turtles. Always turtles.

The most shocking aspect of diving Borneo are the explosions. Violent, sudden, unexpected. I initially thought two tanks had clashed during scuba-acrobatics. I was wrong. Metres from divers exploring protected coral, local fishermen use dynamite filled glass bottles to 'fish'. The explosions are heartbreaking, the damaged coral irreparable. The fish, dead.

Malay fishermen blame Phillipinos, ditto the reverse. I blame the local authorities. A daily reef protection charge is levied on all divers, yet the jetty is decrepit and dynamite fishing abundant with no apparent deterrent.

The explosions are frequent. In future years the diving may not be.

*****
Diving Mabul.
I think each turtle ate an elephant for breakfast, or a rhino. With a great grizzly for desert. They are the largest I have seen. The shells could house a small family. One turtle sits astride a wrecked diveboat. It is clear he is the Boss. The biggest, coolest ninja I have seen. And then his big brother arrived. Donatello released his post to Leonardo. A small cleaner fish nestled into Leo's neck to embrace.

*****
Stories from a diving instructor...

The Shrimp and the Gobi

The shrimp and the gobi live in perfect romantic harmony in sand pockets on the ocean floor. The shrimp is blind and hugs tight to her gobi friend for protection. The gobi bobs in and out of their home, checking for predators and seeking food. The shrimp earns her keep cleaning sand from the hole, sweeping, sweeping, sweeping. Gobi spots something and they both dive for safety. Perfect harmony

*****

Nemo fish live in pairs of alternate sex. When they have children, they chase away or eat all but 2 for fear of being ousted. Every so often, the Queen destroys the King, then changes sex to assume the mantle. The next biggest fish becomes Queen, usually a child of the previous royal regime.

Nowt stranger than fish.

*****

Chasing the Dragon.
The hunt for the Lembeh Sea Dragon began;

'She is the size and shape of hair, but with a small head and eyes. She lives on a reef that also looks like hair.'
'Do we know where she is?'

Instructor points to the ocean. 'She lives in paradise'.
It was the name of the dive site.
Appropriate.

'Oh; if you have never seen one, they are hard to spot.'
'Have you seen one?'
'No, they're reeeaaallyy rare, so I am super excited to find one.'

The giddy anticipation was hugely endearing. I love a mission, it keeps things fresh.
From what I could understand, we were looking for a hair with a nit attached...

...In the Ocean.

Oh, and the nithair was ever so slightly self important.
Sea Dragon? Really?

Disappointingly, we drew a blank. My instructor showed me the tiniest nudi branches and taught me the sex life of Nemo. She ensured every dive had a mission, a purpose, an intention. I would have loved her to find her Sea Dragon. Mind you, if you find everything you desire in paradise, what dreams do you hold for tomorrow?

The chase for the Dragon goes on.

*****

*dive photography credits go to Joachim Ardelt.

(viii) It's all about big and deep

I don't want to sound shallow, but it's all about big and deep for me. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy the foreplay; the titivating view from above, tantalising shapes and depths to be explored for the first time.

The anticipation, the expectation, framed with a little performance anxiety. It has been a while, more through opportunity than choice. I just hope I remember how the equipment works - would hate to let the others down.

Nothing beats that feeling when you jump straight in and get wet for the first time. I take a moment to familiarise myself before diving a little deeper. Keeping my breathing steady to ensure longevity.

I memorise every image to toy with and savour later. A feeling builds as I sink deeper and deeper. I know my buddy feels it too, it's clear in the way her body relaxes, waves of pleasure overtaking us.

I'm nearing my limit. I try to focus on anything else, control my breathing, relax myself.

I never feel complete unless...

...unless

My vision blurs, but through the murky depths I see the smile I've been waiting for. The beautiful, natural grin that makes my day perfect. I inhale deeply with uncontrolled fulfilment.

No dive is complete without a shark sighting.