Showing posts with label Sipadan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sipadan. Show all posts

Thursday, 21 February 2013

(xx) winds of change.

A Westerly wind blows to take me home. 5 airports, 4 planes, one taxi, one coach and a bus. Reality sinking in with each transfer. Island life left behind. Friendships reduced to social networks and fading memories.

The happiness of children playing in Mabul's shantytown plays in my mind. Young girls set a tin can on the floor and retreat 10 yards. They each throw a flip flop. Closest to the can wins. Young boys craft boats from polystyrene, footballs from rolled socks, kites from driftwood and waste fabric. Who needs more when you have imagination, friendship and sunshine.

The flip flops have grown comfortable. White patches scar their imprint on my feet. Soon, thick socks and heavy workboots will hide them. Flip flops discarded to the junk room.

But maybe not. For on my return the room shall become my writing space. My place to dream, to hope, to imagine. A land where driftwood flies high and flip flops are key to every game.

*****

The trip began with Whitesnake echoing in my ears. Each line holding meaning, resonance. As I board the plane, a different line plays in my heart;

'I don't know where I'm going...but I sure know where I've been'

I've been to Brunei, to Borneo, to Sipadan. Most importantly I've been to places of friendships, dreams and happiness. Once home, the Westerly wind must continue to blow. Change at work. Change in my social life. In every aspect, writing has a part to play.

Many people on this trip have traded successful yet unfulfilled existences at home for simpler lives of sunshine, enjoyment, and community. The essence of travelling is meeting others. I have met more likeminded Yorkshire folk on this trip than I ever would during a wet February back in Leeds.

My favourite evening was spent in the local shanty town, far away from tourist luxury. Rickety benches and tables. Travellers, locals, guitar, rum. A chef cooking for the selfless reward of pleasing others. Singing songs we thought we knew the words to. Loudly. Learning local songs. Badly.

Ex-pats and Malays readily sharing meals, drinks, stories. Trading hopes, dreams, ideas.

I met an English couple who married in Rome then drove to Asia. I was jealous. I am jealous. Mongolia sounds fun.

A Yorkshire lawyer with the guts to leave her successful law career to work in fields that motivate and enthuse her. A recognition that happiness is all that matters.

A Belgian architect who came to Sipadan for a fun dive in July. He stayed for August. In September, he went home and studied to be a Dive Master. He now dives Sipadan 12 times a week. I like his office.

A message from a friend back home reminds me life is often tragically short. My thoughts are with her. My thoughts are also with my Grandad who has spent the last month in hospital. He's 88; that's a damn fine innings and I hope he has loved every minute of those years.

I return to a sentiment I wrote on my way out here;

'Don't spend a lifetime plotting yearly escapes. Spend your holidays planning a life you seek no escape from.'

















Wednesday, 20 February 2013

(xviii) diving Sipadan.

There are no words. Sipadan has been a dream since visiting the Philippines 2 years ago. The whispers of her underwater beauty grew as I travelled nearby islands. That holiday she remained a secret, a promise, a dream.

I am sceptical when I hear somewhere is THE Place to go. I tend to avoid such destinations for fear they are tourist traps. My expectation was that I would find nearby islands more satisfying. Less hype, greater delivery.

I was wrong. Entirely. Absolutely. Sipadan is incredible. A sheer wall that starts metres from it's uninhabited beach. Turtles, barracuda, white tip, black tip, leopard sharks. Some divers saw a whale shark the day before I dived. They had a 2 day dive permit. They saw another on the second day. Bastards.

Barracuda circle above my head. Hundreds, thousands, parading in a tornado of beauty. Mesmerising. We drop deeper. In every direction there are sharks. Above, below, left, right, in front, behind. If I were to signal each sighting to my dive buddies I would invent scuba-karate. Turtles in abundance, fish and reef of every colour, shape, variety. On any other dive they would be the star, here they form a wonderful backdrop, a technicolor of dance, colour and emotion.

Sometimes when you meet your dream you are disappointed.

Then there is Sipadan.

*****
Kapalai House Reef

As we enter the water I hear a tank banger drum roll.

DING-DING-DING-DING-DING-DING-DING-DING-DING

Either someone is in trouble or something very special had been sighted. We swim full pelt towards the noise. The excitement in the water confirms the rarity. I control my air intake and manoeuvre so I see the prize.

A beautiful blue ringed octopus, 4 inches long, scuttling around on the sea bed.

Naturally, we do the 'I just saw a blue ringed octopus' underwater dance.
It's really quite a thing to see.

*****
Yesterday I dived Sipadan. Today I met a friend and asked how her day was. The beautiful smile on her face told me everything. She dived Sipadan. Her smile is uncontrollable, my own also. It lights my face as I write these words.

Sipadan. Sipadan. Some day soon we shall dance again. Sipadan.